Fall 2012 London Fashion Week: Temperley London

- By Sarah-Leigh Wade -

As the lights dimmed at the cavernous Temperley location in the heart of London’s Westminster, a pulsating beat began and guests got their first glimpse at a collection simply titled ‘Renaissance’. This season, Alice Temperley was inspired by colours and decadent subjects of the 18th century period. Russian references were also abundant, with folkloric florals, fur Cossack hats and touches of sharp military tailoring.

With Charlotte Olympia providing footwear, and Mawi on jewellery, grandeur was absolute when planning and styling this collection. Glistening from start to end, burnished gold was a recurring focal point; from accessories, to lame gowns and short jackets, even the ornate venue’s ceiling added to the opulence. The varied array of evening dresses should have an Oscar winning wear amongst them, from sleeved columns to fluid, draped silks, one petrol blue creation using only jewel encrusted straps to secure.
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Decoration was key to this line, symmetrical floral embroideries using tonal pinks, green and blue adorned black, white and vivid blue straight-skirted dresses, with hems ranging for knee-length to maxi; sheer embroidered sleeves and clever pin tucks around shoulders updating the silhouette. Crochet was another popular application, seen in knitwear or used as panels, again symmetry being  further applied giving a polished folky feel while puff sleeves and playful ruffles continued to soften looks. Sumptuous gold brocade was used on a starched A-line skirts and later featured as a trouser suit, combining well fitting flares with a boxy blazer.
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Outerwear was another strong point, with super-sharp double breasted trench coats appearing remarkably 1940s inspired, while one leather long-line blazer, cinched at the waist with a belt, was paired with a leather pencil skirt and another black Cossak hat. Capes were also evident, seen in a knitwear combination teamed with matching mid-length pencil skirt, and in black wool with leather shoulder pads and sturdy fastenings.
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Rosettes were used on belts to nip in waists, as was military regalia complete with chains. These were juxtaposed with ultra feminine pieces, further enhancing the three dimensional nature of this collection. Further details of note included cut-away backs on gowns, one in with a sensual deep-v and the refined opera gloves worn with every creation.
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With fabrics rich and styling wonderfully ostentatious, an air of historical imperialism was an evocative notion. Exquisite looking women in equally beautiful clothing, in such a setting made easy for spectators to envision they were perhaps guests at a sublime gathering of the Russian aristoricary form years gone by.

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Based just outside London, Sarah Wade is the editor of international trend service MPDClick.com and the eponymous blog Sarah-LeighsStyleFiles.com. Sarah is an advocate of emerging talent, vintage fashion and the arts, while is also a published photographer. You can follow her on Twitter @SarahLeighW
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Based just outside London, Sarah-Leigh Wade-Bunting is an editor and brand consultant working with trend forecasting organisations and international retailers, specialising in digital media. Sarah-Leigh launched her popular eponymous blog Sarah-LeighsStyleFiles.com in 2009 and is an advocate of emerging talent, vintage fashion and the arts. You can follow her on Twitter @sarah_leigh_b

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