– By Val Bitici –
On Wednesday evening, in New York, it was clear that the duo behind Marchesa have reached a pinnacle with their Fall 2012 RTW collection. With each season, Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig delve deeper and deeper into a sartorial fantasy that they alone can turn into a reality. While their spring collection was a lush, underwater kingdom of floating fringe and pastels, this season is a powerful fortress of invincible embroidery and shields of white, gold and bronze–styles enticing in both beauty and prowess.
As to be expected, Chapman and Craig made much use of their favorite materials–tulle, organza peplum, and feathers–but this season the designers gave the delicate substances strength in numbers, offsetting their light, nonthreatening tones by forming them into virile masses around skirts topped with tight fitting bodices and gilded details. At the show, the drama began quietly, with angelic whites and metallic accents floating calmly down the runway. A striking leather cut-out, knee-length dress in black followed, a look so uncharacteristic of Chapman and Craig’s oeuvre that it left even the most jaded of front-row fashionista’s on the edge of their seats, waiting for more. Next followed a series of undeniably sexy, veil-like sheaths of intricately woven lace and embroidery. Interspersed throughout were mermaid dresses with figure hugging, peekaboo bodices. But the final piece was the most shocking–a billowing gown in crimson, with a satin skirt voluminous enough to make even Scarlett O’Hara weak at the knees. Frankly, my dears, when it comes to Marchesa weall give a damn.