– By Teresa Greenfeld –
If his second prêt-à-porter collection is any indication, sleekness and clean luxury will be to Raf Simons’s Dior what theatrics and extravagance were to Galliano’s. That’s not to say one is superior to the other; any house as enduring, as iconic, as that of Dior, is very much a living being – always innovating, evolving and reinventing itself.
For Fall 2013, Andy Warhol’s early drawings were an inspiration to Simons. Warhol-penned shoes were embossed on bags, while his female portraits appeared on bodices, bustiers, and on exaggerated, asymmetrical peplums. Calling on similarities he found between himself and Dior, Simons also paid homage to the classics – the “New Look” full-skirted silhouette, the Dior houndstooth – but on his own terms: the former he did in black leather, the latter in a bustier. The iconic Bar jacket, done this season in navy, where it took on a slightly more relaxed cut, and in charcoal denim, where it was double breasted and more structured. Simons also took the cable knit to new heights, constructing full crocheted looks: an extraordinary gathered, ruffled peplum on one, and an asymmetrical contrasting knit peplum on another.Other standouts: a grey mink coat-dress with an A-line skirt, and two swinging, tie neck jackets; one architectural and structured in the faintest of pinks, and the other more relaxed and draped in bold red.
Simons’s “memory dresses” – ethereal, 1920’s silhouettes, on which appeared the aforementioned Warhol drawings – were born from the notion of approaching a collection as one would a scrapbook; piecing together fragments of a memory – of the past – to construct the present.
If the present is any indication, Simons’s future with Dior will prove to be exceptional.
Photos courtesy of Style.com