At the year’s most overstated fashion week, Paris Couture Week, Giambattista Valli presents a collection that is progressively chic and possibly more wearable than others. Based on an image of Diana Vreeland (in the forties) having lunch by the pool with a head scarf wrapped as a turbaned bandana, the audience saw anything from a toppled sluggishly out of bed pajama pants paired with a simple cotton shirt, to majestic crepe dresses in bone and black, and ombre-shaded rainbow ball skirts paired with boyfriend shirts. It was tufts and tufts (and more tufts) of hand-sheared silk with blossoms of roses scattered across the buoyant tulle.
As models marched down the runway in floppy head wraps, which seemed perfectly paired with everything in the collection, it became certain that this head trend is an instant hit with the younger couturiers in the audience. Valli’s female appeared careless and relaxed with a holiday-in-the-sun attitude, and an unapologetic, highbrow demeanor. In Valli’s regular fashion, the art references were present and obvious – all the blooms were taken straight from artist Joaquin Sorolla’s oil paintings of colorful flora shining bright in the sunlight. The collection is incontestably sultry and dramatic, in a way that celebrates the early-seventies kind of freedom and eccentricity – the designer explains.