– By Nausheen Shah –
Brunello Cucinelli, a man who has found a way to take the ‘ordinary and make it extraordinary.’ Even with 27 years under his marrone python belt, Cucinelli maintains a brand that defines timelessness based on 3 simple points; luxury, comfort and most importantly, cashmere.
Therefore, it is no surprise that his latest collection doesn’t stray far from the past, sustaining the classic Cucinelli aesthetic. Silk and cotton are the stars of his Spring 2013 presentation, together with impalpable, flowing wool which appears dry, sablé, and fringe-like. Cropped jackets and tops demonstrated the predominate use of this treatment. They are used to offset lustrous, glossy surfaces that resemble molten metal as their appearance is quite opaque and crisp appearing on shoulders and peplums of t-shirts. But as in any Brunello Cucinelli collection exemplifying contemporary sporty-chic elements, femininity must be accentuated – and this season it is highlighted through layers of ultra-light organza, muslin, and gauze.
Brunello Cucinelli’s desire for simplicity is also expressed through his color-stories, which often cater to monochrome neutral and soft color palettes. This season, his refined nuances range from nude and stone to warmer shades of terracotta, copper, and coffee with seasonal hues in slate, coral, and malachite green.
In addition to reviewing his latest collection, we had the honor of spending some time with Mr. Cucinelli himself in which he was able to elaborate about his brand, his clothing and himself.
How would you define your brand?
“It’s a lot easier to get dressed well for the evening, but it can be more challenging to get dressed properly for the daytime. Therefore I think it is important to make chic, luxury sportswear. It should be light and attention to detail and workmanship is extremely important.”
What is the reasoning for the brand staying in a soft, earthy palate season after season?
“Our culture is not about strong color. It has never been. For us it is a matter of taste and lifestyle. I will do color but in my way. You can find a lot of different shades of neutral. It takes a lot of study and dedication to find the right palate, but through color research we are able do a lot of work in color combinations.”
What is the inspiration for the girl this season?
“Young, rock, chic. I like women with style who know how to carry clothes well so I design clothing that can be worn by a 25 year old or 50 year old. The clothing always feels simple, but has impeccable craftsmanship. This season I used a lot of texture.”
What are your top 3 passions after designing?
1. I have a great love of philosophy;
2. Architecture; and
3. Sports. Especially soccer.
I am very inspired by sports in my collections. I will make a windbreaker, but in cashmere. For me, sweats are also made in cashmere.
In menswear when you are a certain age it is important to wear a tailored jacket, but I prefer it with cargo pants. It is sporty but still luxury. It makes you feel more youthful.
Tonight I couldn’t wear my cargo pants because it was not that kind of evening, but if I always had it my way, I would dress in cargo pants, a tie and blazer.