BCBGMAXAZRIA – NYFW Fall/Winter 2014
In their proverbially feministic, though quite sly, brand voice the design duo behind BCBGMAXAZRIA present a collection fit for the times. Cohesive and well thought-out textures included silk, colorful furs, wool knits, and geometric separates with slightly offset mechanical draping and quilted jacquards. These are clothes that warrant authority and significance, yet the soft fluttering movement of fabric (with each step down the double runway) left an impression of liberty.
The color palate of rich winter mauves, pewter solids, mint, camel, and creamy greys was inspired by the southern landscapes, while the silhouettes leaned towards straight, loose, and boxy caftans, tunics, and fur capes. The multicolored fur jacket collar accents were an unexpected, but highly regarded, twist. There was a striking line-up of dresses with asymmetrical hems, geometric cut-outs, and open backs. In contrast to the oversized outerwear, mid-length and mini skirts were straight and slit, adding a flawless balance to the collection. Overall, although not entirely mystifying, BCBGMAXAZRIA delivers another wonderfully wearable collection.
Rachael Roy – NYFW Fall/Winter 2014
For Fall/Winter 2014 Rachel Roy offered her customers a collection that appeared stylistically complex and abundantly merchandized – an illusion of layered separates, which would require a team of professionals to rationalize. We saw a collage of metallic leather skirts paired with Chantilly tops, and worn under jagged shirt-dresses. Then came several innovative and iridescent suits with fascinating (if not conspicuous) fusion of fabrics like tweed, leather, and lace. The kicker came in half way through the presentation, when the audience grasped the brilliance of it all – every look was, in fact, just one piece. What appeared to be a dense lookbook of options for Fall/Winter 2014, was in reality skillfully simple. “My message for Fall is to make looking feminine-but-cool as simple as possible,” she says. Mission accomplished.
Raoul – NYFW Fall 2014
Instead of a runway routine, the audience was treated to a line-up of stills at Raoul Fall/Winter 2014 collection preview – a refreshing departure from the traditional. The collection was an amalgamation of trends and color patterns; in other words, there was literally something for every taste. The brand is known for its clean geometries and bias cuts, but this collection has a slightly more bohemian ease to it. And it seemed highly compartmentalized.
In one corner, there was rich-looking black and white suiting, impeccably stark, mid-calf, straight skirts, semi-metallic poppy dresses, and floor length, feather-adorned gowns. Further down the line, the tone seemed more cheerful and buoyant with a jewel color palette, and a show-stopping satin sheath gown with wind-flapped bow motif. The brand has certainly matured over the last few seasons, and with this collection, Raoul succeeds to both stimulate and surprise.