Today’s round up includes Jill Stuart, Prabal Gurung, Alexander Wang, Altuzarra, Moncler, Tibi and Monique Lhullier.
JILL STUART NYFW FALL/WINTER 2014
What’s a woman to expect from Jill Stuart? If yesterday’s show is anything to go by, a hefty lot of: inky glam, oversized knits and coats, tailored pants, and ever-so-cute polka dots.
Although the über-talented designer has a knack for keeping her crafty hands with the neat and proper ladies; subtle, but still glamorous, streaks of grunge made a pleasant appearance this season. Starting with the models who were mainly made up of dark eyeliner and imperfect (in a perfect kind of way) hair, knee-sweeping and waist-falling fur and wool jackets, dotted dresses and tops – some small and metallic and others largely printed on – and knits coming in either a polo neck or slashed V-necks, Stuart had seemingly mastered a pretty girl rock aesthetic. Standout looks included skirts with centered zips and a dress that was characterized by a crisscross neck.
As for the colour: the palette didn’t conjure much of a variation, but nor was it needed as a playful mix of textures and details had made up for it. Think zips, waist belts, beading and lace. Think leather and suede for midi skirts, baroque for frocks, wool for jumpers, and pretty little sequins sewn onto tights.
–Words by Unsah Malik
Bio: Unsah Malik is a London-based fashion and lifestyle journalist specializing in digital and online content. If she isn’t researching on the latest trends, you can find her tweeting at @unsahmalik.
PRABAL GURUNG NYFW FALL/WINTER 2014
Having started his career in New Delhi, the Kathmandu born designer, Prabal Gurung, presented his latest runway show in the heart of midtown at Moynihan Station today bringing inspiration from the heart of Nepal throughout the entirety of his Fall/Winter 2014 collection.
The palette stayed simple made up primarily of powerful reds, tones of grey and midnight blues, however it was the intricacy of how the fabrics were woven and danced together that truly shined. Created by combining different densities of knits, varying directions of ribbing and layering of medias – composed of minks and Mongolian lamb – texture was clearly the star. From chunky over-sized cable knit sweaters, tiers of fur in cropped jackets and sleek silks that streamlined across the models’ bodies, with the additional help of color-blocking, Gurungs’ collection was simultaneously complicated and complimentary creating wearable pieces from start to finish. While it was all about being covered from the waist up, it was juxtaposed entirely from the waist down. With drapes of silk and chiffon and very high hemlines that swept across Gurung’s girls it exposed legs for days and brought a much needed balance to the heavy nature of the rest of their ensembles. So even though a streaker briefly attempted to steal the show (who was then quickly escorted out by security), it was the sophisticated knitwear and stunning fabric combinations that the crowd will end up taking with them in the end.
–by: Jillian Magenheim
Jillian Magenheim is a writer, editor and a digital media/PR consultant for multiple fashion and beauty brands. You can follow her thoughts on twitter @Magenhaz
ALEXANDER WANG NYFW FALL/WINTER 2014
Let’s face it – Alexander Wang was already the talk of New York Fashion Week with his decision to hold his show in Brooklyn. But shaking things up and bringing the fashion set out of Manhattan was only the start. Wang’s Fall 2014 collection was futuristic in all of the right ways with strong shapes, pop colored details, and a laser-cut and embossed leather jackets in an array of pop colors finale. Structure was everything, with boxy dresses, coats and tops even further accentuated by linear piping and zippers highlighted in high-contrast neon. Wang’s woman borrowed from the boys, with tailored classics reenvisioned in texture and subtle, dark-hued, mix and match with classic prints. Androgynous high necked collars and silk cravats, sleek trousers that stopped at the knee, and jackets with utility pockets galore were balanced with dreamy silk prints, boldly sexy over-the-knee and backless boots, and a wide selection of shift dresses. If the multiple coat pockets weren’t enough, Wang’s accessories solved the pesky ‘I lost it somewhere in my oversized purse’ problem, with multiple smaller item-specific cases strung together and slung over the shoulder in a statement of ultimate jet set. It was bold. It was effortless. It was chic. Wang’s woman is ready to take on the world. Get ready.
–Sarah Bertness is a Brooklyn-based freelance writer covering the arts, music, fashion and culture. She has a love for all things avant-garde, late night rock and roll, wanderlust, and a good dose of fringe and gold sequins. You can follow her musings on Twitter @sarahbertness
ALTUZARRA NYFW FALL/WINTER 2014
If belted outerwear isn’t already a fixture in your closet this season, Altuzarra has officially brought it back to popularity. At first glance we’re introduced to two-tone coats varying in length and color, all cinched at the waist. On par with these fabulously flattering coats were calf-length dresses in bright boucle, light gray modern suiting trimmed in hues of orange and magenta, and leather-trimmed bomber jackets–in what appeared to be sherpa–draped over white and silver satin wrap dresses showing-off plunging necklines. A praiseworthy mix of color and material, Altuzarra’s ready-to-wear collection was both classic and transitional.
MONCLER GRENOBLE NYFW FALL/WINTER 2014
The Moncler presentation featured the Pendulum Choir, an all-male a cappella group from Switzerland, singing arrangements of traditional Alpine song. They performed in down-filled morning suits from Moncler. The models stood in individual lit boxes wearing new looks from the collection in bright colored stretch quilting and tie-die fur. We will surely see some of these Moncler looks on the slopes next season.
TIBI NYFW FALL/WINTER 2014
Menswear was the overlying theme at Tibi this season. Tailored separates, oversized silhouettes, and pin stripes were consistent throughout the collection. Designer Amy Smilovic featured sweaters and dresses in cozy fabrics perfect for a cold day. Smilovic also showed two of this season’s hottest trends, blanket coats and culotte pants. Overall the collection was adorable and we cannot wait to cuddle up to some of those fuzzy sweaters next winter.
MONIQUE LHULLIER NYFW FALL/WINTER 2014
Basking in the intersection of art and fashion is Monique Lhullier, and her Fall 2014 collection is no exception. All forty-plus designs were unique in their construction, displaying a darkness we haven’t seen in Lhullier’s past collections. Think black lace overlay and flapper-esque fringe-adorned dresses–uncharacteristic, yet impressive in their own right. The designer traded classic silhouettes for more contemporary styles, including the increasingly popular mullet design, showcasing her versatility. Intricate beading and embellishment added an extra layer of beauty to the construction of each piece. Needless to say, the collection stunned all in attendance.
– Sara Micelotta