The weekend round up includes Christian Dior, Isabel Marant, MMMargiela & Vanessa Bruno.
CHRISTIAN DIOR PFW FALL/WINTER 2014
It may have been a collection of ready-to-wear destined for next fall, but spring was certainly in the air both outside and within the tent housing Dior’s fashion show on Friday. Felt by many who witnessed the show was a strong sense of revolution – the revolution of an iconic brand reborn and seen through the fresh eyes of a designer who, after a few seasons, is now harnessing the massive commercial and cultural beast that is the legendary house of Dior.
Kiss the Galliano or Gaytten hallmarks goodbye. Long gone are the romantic days of bias-cut gowns, of ruffles, wasp waists, and decadent productions replete with extravagant wigs and makeup, or grand finales culminating with a gallant maestro’s bow. Those images seem like sepia-stained souvenirs forgotten in the energetic wake of Raf Simons’ vivid, streamlined designs – designs paraded to the beat of throbbing electronic music and glowing beneath a ceiling completely tiled in pulsating LED screens of various sizes and colors.
Not a single printed fabric was seen among the presentation’s fifty-five looks, many comprised of squarely cut separates rendered in vibrantly hued heavyweight fabrics. The strong, slightly elongated shoulders and jacket lengths took their design cues from menswear, while the limitless rainbow of a color palette ushered in a new vision for fall, unencumbered by the traditional rules of seasonal dressing. A dress incorporating hot fuchsia and kelly green; an astrakhan fur in bubblegum pink; sleeveless coats in the brightest shade of blue and smiley-face yellow – to these design proposals we say, “yes, indeed.”
Among the most memorable looks was a series of short, two-tone cocktail dresses with graphic slits on the thigh and off-kilter necklines that screamed of new and now. Also coaxing a few smiles from the audience were several styles featuring criss-cross lacing in contrasting colors.
Those who wistfully yearn for the days of Dior yore would have perhaps appreciated the references to corsetry recalled by the aforementioned lacing, as well as the shimmering jeweled blossoms that decorated a few of the dresses and clutches. Other classical Dior trademarks made an appearance on the runway as well. The traditional cannage motif – ubiquitous on Dior’s most famous handbags – was morphed into a sort of warped quilted pattern, showcasing a futuristic take on the beautiful craftsmanship the brand is known for.
If this collection is any indication of the rapid pace at which Dior seems to be evolving under the direction of Raf Simons, then it’s with much curiosity and optimism that we await future collections, especially if Simons can continue to nudge us towards sleek modernity without ever losing grasp of the glamour that forms part of the DNA of Dior.
By: Lucas Somoza
A fashion stylist, event designer, and style writer, Lucas Somoza has a keen eye for all things beautiful. Based in Paris, Lucas regularly collaborates with Olivia throughout Paris Fashion Week, producing editorials and contributing reviews of designer collections. You can follow Lucas on Instagram and Facebook.
ISABEL MARANT PFW FALL/WINTER 2014
No one does cool, casual chic like Isabel Marant- the textures, the cuts, the elusive mix and match of informal elegance. Marant’s F/W 2014 palette went from winter whites to earthy neutrals to grayscale and mixed metallics in effortless silhouettes. Strong shoulders and fuzzy knits paired with loose printed pants, sequined minis glimmered under oversized sweaters, and plaid pieces added just the right bit of old soul nostalgia. There were definite utilitarian nods, with army greens, cargo pants, and leave it to Marant to imagine embellished camouflage.
Blending city with countryside, grunge with glam and military with menswear, Marant’s talent to integrate trends while making them feel above the trend shines in this collection. With an easy-to-put–together, easy-to-wear aesthetic that has been so well embraced by the fashion set, Marant once again proves that dressing down is no longer a fashion no-no, and I’m pretty sure style savy women everywhere are cheering (and ordering).
By: Sarah Bertness
Sarah Bertness is a Brooklyn-based freelance writer covering the arts, music, fashion and culture. She has a love for all things avant-garde, late night rock and roll, wanderlust, and a good dose of fringe and gold sequins. You can follow her musings on Twitter @sarahbertness
VANESSA BRUNO PFW FALL/WINTER 2014
Opening with a grayscale leopard print trench paired with bare legs and a pair of pointed lace up oxford, Bruno stuck to her well-developed equation of Parisian romance borrowing bits and pieces from the boys. Scalloped hemmed sheath dresses paired with bulky knits, silky bomber jackets went over flowing sundresses, and suiting separates got dressed for work and for play with party minis mixed with button downs. Bruno stuck with a simple monochromatic palette paired with baby blue, army green and a pop of cobalt in her abstracted camo print. From scaled skirts to fur capped shoulders, textural details heightened basics, while sporty details likes zips and pulls kept things current. Bruno kept it simple and chic, and isn’t that what the Parisian styling is all about?
By: Sarah Bertness
–Sarah Bertness is a Brooklyn-based freelance writer covering the arts, music, fashion and culture. She has a love for all things avant-garde, late night rock and roll, wanderlust, and a good dose of fringe and gold sequins. You can follow her musings on Twitter @sarahbertness
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA PFW FALL/WINTER 2014
With Kanye West nodding in approval from front row center, Maison Martin Margiela delivered a collection worthy of a documentary. The house famous for its radical approach to tailoring brought back its signature nipped waists, stooped shoulders, and sculptural sleeves, but combined this with outside linings, and tea-stained slips over skirts, bringing in a fresh view on what’s cool next Fall.
The show started with delicate lace slip tops, and dresses paired with herringbone and plaid unrestricting trousers. Layers upon layers of glittery undergarments over shirts, belted at the waist, made for an involved presentation, and gave an illusion of effortless styling. But it was the choppy tailoring of his outerwear that left MMM’s admirers stunned and certainly excited for Fall.
by Andrea Mestrovic
Andrea Mestrovic is a multi-lingual, multi-talented, but modest multi-tasker who has lived on both sides of the Atlantic. Andrea has a sure-footed instinct for discovering magnificent finds all over the globe. You can follow her on twitter @AndreaMestrovic or read all her posts on http://oliviapalermo.com/author/andrea