GIVENCHY PFW FALL/WINTER 2014
Yesterday, we saw a different side of Riccardo Tisci. Expressing his creative superiority in a more feminine light than in seasons’ past, Tisci transported viewers to the old Hollywood only seen in films. He strayed away from the street style focused designer we’re most familiar with and introduced a newfound, ladylike glamour. This opulence was shown through soft pleated silk dresses in python and butterfly prints, buttoned to the very top. Then came the furs we couldn’t get enough of in off-whites, chestnuts, deep browns and an awe-inspiring leopard print, guaranteed to stun every guest in attendance. While there was a hint of the usual Tisci in a few pieces (see masculine tailored blazer and pant sets), bold strips of color added an extra layer to these designs—both literally and figuratively. Last but not least were Tisci’s series of final dresses, all with fitted leather shell tops and black silk chiffon skirts—one of which was modeled by an almost unrecognizable, Kendall Jenner, who seemed to be floating down the runway. A wonderfully redefined Givenchy, as we know it.
By Sara Micelotta
Sara Micelotta is a New York-based contributor with a background in fashion public relations, marketing and event production. Follow her shopping and dining trips on instagram @saramicelotta
CELINE PFW FALL/WINTER 2014
Name-dropped in a Kanye song and respected by her fashion and celebrity peers, Phoebe Philo is no stand-in fashion-house designer. The power-head of Celine, she has wowed us all with her accessible garments, flair for the raw (and the real) all of which was showcased in this year’s A/W collection, too. The first few looks encapsulated sleek tailoring and a thirties feel with a twist – from long black coats with askew fastenings to khaki green off-the-shoulder sailor tops – tucked into flared grey pants. It felt practical and simple, but slowly the oversized cocoon coats and trends of modern times began to seep in, and the masculine feel at the beginning slowly began to ebb away as lilacs and asymmetric skirts worked the catwalk. As for prints, they became more feminine too; gingham, animal prints. It was the perfect balance between masculine and feminine. Another job, very well done.
By: Sarah Kwong
Sarah is a features writer for a women’s weekly magazine and is based in London. Prior to this, she worked for Cosmopolitan UK magazine, and has freelanced for a variety of National magazines and websites, including The Times Magazine, Glamour and Cosmopolitan.co.uk, among others. She also blogs on the Huffington Post.
KENZO PFW FALL/WINTER 2014
For their third installment of inspiration courtesy of David Lynch, Kenzo’s Carol Lim and Humberto Leon signed the film maker on as a collaborator this season, having him produce the set and music to fully immerse us in his world and allowing Lim and Leon to bring us their most elaborate Lynch-inspired collection to-date.
The show began with what the designers called “tool creatures” looking like perfectly formed puzzle pieces which were paired with jagged chevron lines that somehow became harmonious with one another from color to design throughout the finely tailored and ornately styled runway. Colors of neon green, bright white, electric orange, gold and vibrant purple shined brightly from beginning to end whether shown as stunning jacquards on a background of black or kept as a basic solid on billowy outerwear. Their playful spin on proportion wasn’t lost on anyone as voluminous skater skirts were placed over full printed suits and strapless leather dresses and peplum wool jumpsuits where shone over turtlenecks – the staple piece of the collection. A period of fine knits left simple and uncomplicated as well as with the addition of silver and copper embellishments brought balance to the collection, taking the runway show from art gallery to reality. Although in the end it may have seemed like a lot, just like all the geometric lines found within the Kenzo’s latest presentation, piece for piece, it all fit together seamlessly.
By: Jillian Magenheim
Jillian Magenheim is a writer, editor and a digital media/PR consultant for multiple fashion and beauty brands. You can follow her thoughts on twitter @Magenhaz
CHLOE PFW FALL/WINTER 2014
You can tell from watching the Fall 2014 runway collection from Chloé that this is a brand of clothing for women, designed by a woman who just gets it. Claire Waight Keller, creative director of Chloé, seems to have her finger on the pulse of what so many women want, a point proven by the effortlessly elegant, cozy-chic array of desirable looks she sent down the runway on Sunday.
Roomy, generously draped coats, chunky oversized knits and tomboy-luxe leather separates provided warm solutions to any future polar vortexes. These pieces, combined with the billowy flow of matte silk tunics and blouses, made for a collection that personifies the Chloé aesthetic of pretty softness-meets-boyish charm.
Some fresh textural ideas came in the form of fuzzy sheepskin heels, fringed and feathered fabrics, printed furs, and geometric metal accents on eveningwear – items which will certainly have the street style photographers (who seemingly outnumber the guests at the shows this week) snapping away at the it-girls and fashion darlings donning these very pieces next season.
On the same wavelength as the collection that preceded it, this showing cemented Chloé as the go-to brand for female luxury consumers who would never want to be thought of as trying too hard or seeming too precious. For the fashion-conscious but laidback urbanite, Chloé always gets it right.
- LUCAS SOMOZA
A fashion stylist, event designer, and style writer, Lucas Somoza has a keen eye for all things beautiful. Based in Paris, Lucas regularly collaborates with Olivia throughout Paris Fashion Week, producing editorials and contributing reviews of designer collections. You can follow Lucas on Instagram and Facebook.