- By Andrea Mestrovic -
Marco Zanini’s Autumn/Winter 2012 collection for Rochas is curiously mathematical. The fabric running through the entire collection features a sequence of irregularly shaped geometric forms, often fueled with gold imprint and python accessories. Although this collage of odd shapes and eccentric prints sounds severe, Zanini manages to give it structure and even infuses it with traces of idealism using his legendary sartorial knack.
He transports the audience back to the 70s and 50s with a heroine that resembles a sexy, disciplinary librarian (or an extrovert physicist) wearing a clash of unsexy separates: closed-up high-collar blouses, below-the-knee pleated skirts, wide-leg trousers and lazy knits. But it is the opulence of Zanini’s textures and prints, the palette of potent reds and greens, and the mystery of his mismatches, together with very precise styling (untidy ponytails, thick-framed glasses and crimson lips) that make you sit up straight and pay close attention to the magnitude of his ideas.
Rochas is a label known for its inventive forms that continually serve a function; in other words – wearable art. We got glimpses of this throughout the show with Zanini’s interpretation of this season’s ball gown – a startling, long-sleeve incised pattern dress with a sweeping bubble skirt bottom, and a livery collar to remind Rochas enthusiasts of his fealty to inimitability.
When asked about the inspiration behind this collection, Zanini mentions the three key elements that dominated his mood board: Nordic Modernism, Scandinavian ceramics and a Swedish artist by the name of Wilhelm Kage.