For Barbara Bui this season, nothing defines the freshness of a new spring collection than a whole lot of denim; denim that serves itself with sprinting energy, and denim that whole-heartedly takes over the runway. There’s strutting like you know it, and then – as Bui showed – there’s strutting like you own it.
This is exactly how Bui intended it to play out. While using denim for its ‘dignity and power’, much of her traditional representations of femininity, strength and sensitivity played an integral role in constructing an almost fearless vibe for this collection. We didn’t see denim in the usual mediocre state, and nor did it pop up here and there – it dominated the whole scene with complex details, sporty motifs and seasonal separates while shifting the atmosphere into a new realm of talent.
Keeping that in mind, it isn’t to forget how important the details are in this collection. It’s what, essentially, decorates the pieces to make a perfect fit for the typical Barbara Bui woman. Floral applique and beading encrusted onto blazers and boxy cropped jackets, many with nothing more than an underpinning bandeau or the occasional crisp white high collar blouses, while python and leather materials were used to compliment the “indispensable and modern” denim on both tops and mini dresses that came with puffy, oversized sleeves.
Bottom pieces moved from figure hugging high-waist shorts to a more impeccably tailored version, as well as ‘men’-like pants. For every pretty detailing or texture that depicts the innocent and young lady, there’s another to depict the independent, strong woman. Rightly so, it’s never easy to forget the fundamental elements of a Barbara Bui collection. And as for the standout piece: the denim cape (impractical as it may sound.)
As the collection progressed, the palette took a turn for some darker hues, before taking a step forward from monochrome, with what Bui describes as a ‘mismatch of red floral decoration on a milky vinyl background’, and what looks like an organza suit; no doubt inspired from her mixed Asian and Western background.
Now, with a denim-galore collection as impressive as that, who’s ever to fault the material again?