After showcasing his first ready to wear collection for Christian Dior last year, Raf Simons set expectations for his SS14 collection with the house at an all time high. But then again, considering it’s Mr. Simons, and the laudable fact that no one really doubts his ongoing talents, there’s no surprise that he outsmart himself, again. With a setting of 3,000 square meters in Rodin Museum covered with luminous flowers, which stunningly dangled from the ceiling, what the collection came to show the star-studded crowd was Raf Simons’ work in perfect motion.
Everything – from the thickly coloured metallic eyebrows on models to the ankle strapped and side-laced heels – was carefully considered and appropriately applied to define the kind of Dior woman that Raf seems to be molding; she’s classy but still acquires her quirkier and youthful side, she appears effortless but it’s apparent that there’s more than just the work of a few pieces being put together here.
For the love of bursting and zesty colours, there’s plenty of that going on this collection. Starting with the pleated (horizontally and diagonally) asymmetrical skirts that came in an assorted palate of fuchsia, royal blue, and floral prints too, there was a strong resemblance between the arty effects of what looked like paint splashes lightly dashed on, and the flowers that were hanging from the ceiling. Although, in a stark contrast, these colours were balanced with sleeker and more fitted black and navy blouses and boxy blazers, some coming with miniature cutouts by the waist – sensual but not suggestive. Statement necklaces mirrored dazzling poisonous ivy, first appearing on a knitted baby pink top and then fitted onto tops with stamped Dior badges.
Pants were slightly short-lived in this collection, only appearing a few times in the form black cigarette pants, but it didn’t seem to matter as attention was always needed elsewhere, especially on cocktail dresses where slogans reading ‘hyperrealism in the daytime’ and ‘primrose path’ were darted across. Jackets were perfected and mastered in this collection with a great variation from boxy’s, oversized, floral inserted godets, and double breasted satin.
Glamour was subtly introduced. First we saw elements of it with classic satin blouses and skirt, then with delicate beadings on dresses, and then a stream of metallics – the latter being the most impressive with bell-shaped tops and elaborated A-line dresses. As for the finale look? Nothing other than a slick, black tuxedo with a Dior badge fittingly placed on.