With a history spanning four decades, Spanish fashion house Delpozo celebrated its second phase of their re-launch during NYFW under the helm of creative director Josep Font. For his second collection, Font took inspiration from the brand’s homeland, showing a collection that juxtaposed traditional silhouettes with innovative proportion play and delicate tonal embellishments.
Inspired by Jean-Baptiste-Camille Corot’s portrait of a Gypsy woman with a tambourine, the designer’s dedicated approach to craftsmanship succeeded in a tailored line that felt full of structure yet beautifully relaxed. Subtle Spanish nuances were left for matador jackets and off-the-shoulder blouses worn with full skirts. Intricacies could be found in the detail including tightly laced up panels on a cropped jacket, pleats forming organic curves on sleeves and at the waist of voluminous skirts and shorts and on symmetrical embroideries seen on delicate knits and chiffon tunics.
Whilst the collection played on simplicity and clean curved lines, Font’s typical ready-to-wear-meets-couture approach was evident in avant-garde proportions and architectural flourishes. Highlights included burnt tangerine trousers with sharp frills protruding from the waistline paired with a soft white blouse complete with dramatically draped sleeves and a striped boxy cropped top with wide-leg black pants cut to the extreme.
A core femininity was not only evident in the softly structured separates but also with the use of soft prints including watercolour florals. A bandeau dress with frilled skirt covered in sunflowers and elsewhere, a matching blouse with tumbling lengths of fabric at the back made us all wish summer wasn’t on its way out and there was a year to go until next time.
Eveningwear was a further focal point, where the floral love affair continued. Set amongst a backdrop of pearly creams and a hot-but-wearable pink, full skirts and romantic frills once again combined with starker shapes. The finale saw a selection of entirely lust-worthy muted pleated chiffon gowns followed by a bright white full-skirted dress, complete with softly draped layers and exquisite embroidery; demonstrating not only Font’s knack for covetable day wear but occasion wear, bridal and beyond