Giambattista Valli has a knack for creating ultra-feminine pieces, be it in his RTW or couture collections. It’s what he embodies and conquers, and it’s what he yet again proved to be the mogul of this season.
Although Valli’s traditional elements of appliques, florals, soft fabric and luxe materials were most present, there was an injection of something more daring this season – the adroit handling of shapes, perhaps rooting from his inspirations behind the collection; conceptual artist Alighiero Boetti and filmmaker Pier Paolo.
Dresses (mini and midi) were slouchy and soft, but that’s not to say volume was left ignored as stiffening tops and jackets with avant-garde shoulders definitely left an impression – especially when sheepskin was used. For those who steer away from overly sweetening collections – this was one to observe as those pastel summer colours, the lilac working like a charm, came with black and white infused into the mix to; a sleek contrast that nonetheless worked. Think of it as ying and yang.
In fact, the ying and yang vibe is what most of this collection seemingly abided by. There were plenty of contrasts between short and long, open and closed, monochrome and colour, and even a shift between materials. Where the opening looks had bare midriffs and exaggerated pleats barely covering undergarments, the next featured an asymmetrical and fitted dress, and then in came a stream of roomy collarless coats, skimming just under the knees, that were belted up with gold cords. Details, as expected from Valli, remained chic but it was cool and collected as nothing appeared to look too heavy – from hand drawn stripes to ruffle-like applique, the daintiest paisley print, and even cornstalks; all the little things found a way of sitting on outfits very well.
And as for the standout look, or rather looks as it’s difficult to pin down to one; the impeccable, gold (coming in a very light hue) dresses with the most intricate of all embroideries worked in – the epitome of a Giambattista Valli woman.