Exuding tranquillity, Natalie Ratabesi’s spring/summer 2014 Philosophy collection provided a welcome calm in New York Fashion Week’s hectic agenda.
Keeping things simple, a base palette of cream and white block ensembles later used grey marl, a vivid mint and powder pink to add interest. Light-weight fabrics were key here – relaxed tailoring and super-soft silk slip dresses and kimono-style cover-ups falling fluidly as models took to the runway.
The collection had a loungewear feel about it, though the loose, fluid layers will undoubtedly be mixed and matched by the iconic brand’s urbanite following the world over. Whilst utterly wearable, a few standout pieces took a more calculated approach, workwear in particular providing a harder focal point in the midst of drapes and soft gathers. Sheer blouses used organic curved panels and were paired with super-wide pants whilst a sharp tux was softened with oversized curved lapels and voluminous trousers.
To conclude, things took a more feminine, flirtatious route with a selection of gowns evocative of the boudoir. Chiffon frills and flounces adorned an off-the-shoulder sheer smock, a one-shouldered candy pink column dress and an all-white number with plunging neckline. All in all, the collection felt fresh and flexible when considering the infinite layering options and fun to be had with the loose proportions. The pace felt slowed, as if Ratabesi wanted you to take in every inch of fabric and its movement and that we did.