Inspired mainly by two influences, Proenza Schouler Spring 2014 was a study in contrasts; a lesson in less is more. The first, Arte Povera, the late sixtes Italian modern art movement based on a return to nature and the simple, meaningfulness of the everyday, served as the influence behind their prints; the second, West Coast midcentury furniture designers, provided the inspiration behind their use of chrome and wood. Perhaps serenely dignified is a better way to put it.
Designers Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McColluough’s fluid, calm-evoking collection combined sumptuous textures of butter soft suedes, silk knits and crepe, with sleek structure – one, however, that was without rigidity or stiffness. Rather, it was in its polish and refinery. A zen, earthy palette of soft, creamy whites, buttercream yellows, and rich terra-cotta, and accented with shimmering metallics, the collection was the duo’s first attempt at draping – with overwhelmingly successful results.
Pleats abounded; skirts paneled in white, ivory, and black, with lamé silver and copper metallic strips woven though, gleamed as they moved down the runway. Hernandez and McColluough’s pant of choice was an ankle-length, wide leg version that sat high on the waist. It was a pant that appeared in both their daywear – done in a yellow and white stripe, in rich terra-cotta suede, and in a cream knit, finished to resemble wood grain- as well as for evening, done in a black and a cream crepe silk, both of which were paired with metal breastplates. The eveningwear, a high point in an already stratospheric collection, was done primarily with black pleated knits, threaded with gold or silver.
Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McColluough prove yet again why they are fashion’s darlings.