Hard, dark and alternative – just three words to describe Simone Rocha’s SS14 collection. The young Dubliner stood strong on her take of next summer, bypassing the expected and employing a clever synergy between grunge and bridal.
Colours were kept to a minimum, with black and white taking centre stage. But instead of harsh, brightly-lit monochromes, Rocha softened her angst, with Victorian-style cream collars and flared skirts.
Despite first-glance severity, there was a romance about the collection, most notably the white pom-pom topped sheer socks and innocent embroidery anglais shift dresses. The feminine cuts – outlined triangles on the breasts, and full skirts – balanced out the gothic vibe. The mossy green silk strap slip, and billowing cream tulle overlays in particular, added another dimension to Rocha’s vision.
While she ditched the summery brights of her SS13 collection, she held onto some of the shapes and styles. One such example is the boxy, oversized lapel jacket and shift skirt. This year, she ditched the floral print and soft textiles in exchange for opaque raincoat separates with dark circular patterns. The perfect lovechild of grunge and summer.
Rocha was bold in her choice of textures, opting for everything from jacquards to thick tulle, and clever in her use of accessories. Alongside the opaque knee socks, Rocha integrated small black and white nineties-esq handbags and a variety of shoes. The black masculine flats adorned with white pompoms gave a nod to the monochrome-heavy pieces in the collection, while the chunky clear jelly shoes had a playful Spring feeling about them.
We’re getting to know Rocha’s style and fearlessness when it comes to colour, texture and most of all, change. From black tulle ruffles, placed halfway down a skirt, to angelic white midi slips, Rocha is paving her way at Fashion Week, individuality in abundance. Incredible, considering her first solo runway show at LFW was just two years ago.