Known for his rousing indefiniteness in both shape and cut, but always with a certain level of decorum, Thakoon delights with a Spring 2014 collection more industriously sartorial than expected, or seen before. His phlegmatic forms, signature trompe l’oeil stitching, as well as, dimension and layering patchwork, once again prove why he is one of this century’s best couturiers. In line with what seems to be a unifying theme for Spring 2014, Thakoon presents a collection filled with ladycisms, but contrasted against suggestive lace, revealing razor cuts, high slits, and brassiere tops. “I always like a bit of the coquette,” he has said.
We were satisfyingly surprised with his monochromatic, not-so-basic pieces, but equally delighted to see some abstract blooms in hallucinogenic red shades. Pleated, uneven hem, cabbage rose print dress and skirt were the recognized standouts. Thakoon started the show with a lineup of virgin white, ranging from slinky to stern, bondage to delicate, but always with a little peekaboo. He experimented with metallics that seemed surreal yet fluid and light, in part due to dimension created with embroidered flowers – a Thakoon hallmark.
The designer also played with vinyl to create a frantic sense of fashion urgency and artistic expression. The crimson red vinyl brassiere top paired with a moveable white pencil skirt infused a sense of shock and reminded the onlookers that Thakoon’s familiar prettiness always comes with a little dose of naughty. Another celebrated detail this season seem to be pearls – Thakoon added strings of pearls to all his purses, which had a dual purpose as necklaces and cross-body straps.
Although at times strangely intimidating, Thakoon’s erogenous version of ladylike for Spring 2014 is raising eyebrows and making us wish spring was here already.