– By Teresa Greenfeld –
If there was ever doubt in the saying “expect the unexpected,” it was erased from the moment the first look appeared on Marni’s Spring 2013 runway. In a mostly clean and monochrome collection – certainly a departure from the line’s signature prints and vivid colors – designer Consuelo Castiglioni chose to make structure, cut, and proportion its dominant statements. Using a stark canvas of black and white, Castiglioni’s statement was most definitely heard, most notably in her use of peplums in dresses, tops and jackets. For all their architecture and couture-like structure, they were somehow able to retain movement and airiness making them ultimately wearable.
Notice, however, the above use of the word ‘mostly’. Serving perhaps to remind us where we were, Castiglioni did show a few spectacularly done prints in saturated color, indicative of that diacritic Marni-ness she does so well; an orange, red, and green printed trench, cinched tight at the waist, a shimmering, textured sleeveless shell with a plunging neckline done in the same vibrant print, and paired with a matching full skirt, cut to the knee, were like a Marni string tied around our finger.
If this switch to clean and structured architecture is a prediction of the Marni esthetic to come, we hope this is an exception to the expected unexpectedness
Photos courtesy of Style.com