– By Andrea Mestrovic –
From a man who typically does unforced, drippy, liberated and loved, characteristically assertive but never overly provocative collections, I was admittedly in wonder to see a line-up of corsetry, dramatic leather harnesses, curve-defining mid-thigh leather pencil skirts with organza panels, juxtaposed against embroidered tulle gowns at Jason Wu Spring/Summer 2013 presentation. This collection was a fine balance of things – things sensual and things innocent. He was inspired by two different versions of what makes a woman – as famously curatored by photographers Helmut Newton and Lillian Basman. One is a raw vixen, flawlessly dressed in precisely tailored masculine tuxedos, while the other illustrates beauty in a more feminine, softer form with fairytale full gowns, embroidered lace, and filmy chiffon skirts.
“I wanted to make a collection that sort of balanced, just teetered on that line, of sexy but still sophisticated,” Wu explained.
He opened the show with a line-up of commanding black leather pieces that were laser-cut with insets of lace. Wu pulled silhouettes from a series of significant fashion eras: eighties high-waisted pant and mid-thigh pencil skirts, forties tailored shorts, and mid-century classic full skirts. The most dominant and continual motif for his Spring/Summer 2013 collection is underwear as outerwear. Wu used transparency to create x-ray vision of his impressive silhouettes with corsetry and undergarments teasingly visible through rich layers of chiffon and tulle.
The final gown – a starry, translucent tulle creation that seemed to move to exact instruction – left the audience somewhere in Wu’s land of brilliantly complicated dreams with no desire to exit. This spring season, fill your social calendar with galas that allow and require Jason Wu’s voluminous, gossamer gowns.
Andrea Mestrovic is a multi-lingual, multi-talented, but modest multi-tasker who has lived on both sides of the Atlantic. Andrea has a sure-footed instinct for discovering magnificent finds all over the globe. You can follow her on twitter @AndreaMestrovic or read all her posts on oliviapalermo.com/author/andrea
Photos courtesy of Style.com